Mechanical · Hackbridge, South London

Engine replacement in South London, quoted before we strip it

An engine swap is the most expensive job in this workshop, so we treat the decision as part of the work. Before anyone quotes a figure, the car goes on the ramp for compression and leak-down readings and a proper look inside the bores, and you see what we found. If the engine really is finished, we set out what a reconditioned unit and a good used unit each cost, what warranty comes with them, and what else is worth doing while the engine is out. Written quote first, from £900, and no strip-down without your say-so.

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From £900 · 2–5 days
Mon–Sat 8am–8pm

Technician working in an engine bay at KITH Cars Garage & Bodyworks, Hackbridge

From £900Written quote before we start

2–5 daysTypical time in the workshop

3 monthsWorkmanship warranty

17 areasCollection across South London

Failure proven before any quote

Compression and leak-down figures and borescope images come first, because plenty of cars arrive sounding terminal and leave with an injector or a turbo repaired instead.

Engine paperwork put in your hands

You see the engine code, the recorded mileage and the supplier's warranty terms in writing before you agree to anything. No engine arrives here as an anonymous crate.

Optional extras priced, not bundled

The parts that are sensible to do while the engine is out are quoted as separate line items with their own prices. You decide which of them are worth it.

Diagnosis and fitting under one roof

The same workshop confirms the failure, strips the car, fits the replacement and does the post-fit programming and adaptations, so nothing is lost between two sets of hands.

In the workshop

How we handle engine replacement at Hackbridge

Engine work happens in the bay with the ramp and the crane, and it starts with proof rather than opinion. We take compression figures cylinder by cylinder, follow up with a leak-down test to hear where the pressure is escaping, and pass a borescope through the plug or injector holes to look at the piston crowns and bore walls. Where we are hunting for bearing material we drain the sump through a filter or cut the oil filter open. Those findings, with photographs where they help, go to you before any figure is discussed.

Sourcing is where most of the money is decided, so we do it in the open. You get the engine code we are matching, the recorded mileage, where the unit is coming from and the supplier's written warranty terms before you commit to anything. We will not fit an engine with no traceable history and nothing behind it, and we will not guess a code from the registration when the VIN and the number stamped on the block tell us properly. The quote separates the engine, the labour, the fluids and gaskets, and the optional items that are cheap now and expensive later.

Those optional items are listed with their own prices so you can choose, rather than bundled in: clutch and release bearing, rear main seal, engine mounts, thermostat, auxiliary belt. We also put right whatever killed the first engine, because a blocked oil feed or a failed cooling component will do exactly the same to the second one. Once the new unit is running we bring it up to temperature, let it cool right down and go over every joint and hose clip again, because seals settle as they heat cycle. Our labour carries the 3-month workmanship warranty, and we ask you back for an early oil and filter change while the engine beds in.

Mechanical

Engine Replacement: what’s involved

Replacing an engine is a big decision, and it should only happen once the failure is confirmed. Some problems that sound terminal, such as a misfire, heavy smoke or a no-start, can be injectors, coils, a turbo or a head gasket. Genuine engine failure usually means internal mechanical damage: bent valves and damaged pistons after a timing failure, spun bearings from oil starvation, water ingestion that bends connecting rods, or overheating that cracks the head or block.

When the engine is beyond economical repair, a replacement engine is often cheaper than a full rebuild and can give a sound car many more years. The replacement must match your engine code so it fits the car's mountings, wiring and engine management. We transfer ancillary parts, renew the seals and wearing parts that are easy to reach with the engine out, and set everything up before the car goes back on the road.

When an engine may need replacing

Deep knocking from the bottom end

A heavy knock that rises with revs, often after low oil pressure, usually means worn or spun crankshaft bearings.

Timing belt or chain failure

If the timing has broken or jumped on an interference engine, several valves are usually bent and pistons can be damaged. We check the extent before advising.

Water ingestion

Driving through deep water can draw water into the cylinders. The engine stops abruptly, and connecting rods can bend.

Severe overheating

An engine driven while overheating can warp or crack the cylinder head or block, often with coolant mixing into the oil.

Low compression across cylinders

Poor compression in several cylinders from worn rings or bores leads to smoke, oil consumption and lack of power.

Metal in the oil

Metallic particles in the oil or sump usually mean internal parts are breaking up.

Seized engine

An engine that will not turn at all on the starter or by hand has internal damage.

When is replacement the right choice?

Replacement makes sense when the engine has confirmed internal damage and the rest of the car is worth keeping. We compare three options honestly: repairing the existing engine, fitting a replacement, or not proceeding if the car's value does not justify the cost. The age and condition of the gearbox, body and suspension matter too. If a head rebuild or new timing kit will solve the problem, we will say so rather than recommend a whole engine.

Confirmed bottom-end damage such as spun bearings
Multiple bent valves with piston or head damage after a timing failure
Bent connecting rods after water ingestion
Cracked block or head after severe overheating
When the rest of the car justifies the investment

How we replace an engine

Confirm the failureWe use compression and leak-down tests, fault codes, a borescope inspection of the cylinders and oil checks to confirm what has actually failed.
Options and written quoteWe explain repair versus replacement, reconditioned versus used engines, and what warranty the engine supplier provides, then quote in writing.
Source the right engineWe source an engine with the same engine code and check its mileage and condition. Used engines are checked for compression where the supplier allows.
Remove the old engineFluids are drained and the engine removed, with or without the gearbox depending on the car.
Prepare the replacementAncillaries are transferred, and we replace seals, gaskets and wearing parts that are easy to reach now. On used engines with unknown history we recommend a new cambelt kit.
Fit and connectThe engine is fitted with new mounts where needed, connected and filled with oil, coolant and any fluids disturbed, to manufacturer specification.
First start and checksWe prime the oil system before first start, check oil pressure, leaks and fault codes, and set up any adaptations. Diesel injector codes are programmed if injectors change.
Road test and handoverWe road test, recheck levels and leaks once cool, and give you the new engine number and running-in advice.

Engines and parts we fit

We fit reconditioned engines, which have been stripped, machined where needed and rebuilt with new wearing parts, or good used engines with known mileage from established suppliers. Both are matched to your engine code. Every job includes new gaskets and seals, a new oil filter and oil to your manufacturer's specification, such as the appropriate Castrol grade, plus fresh coolant. We also advise on the clutch and flywheel while the engine is out.

Reconditioned or used engine matched by engine code
New gaskets, seals and fixings where required
Engine oil to manufacturer specification and a new oil filter
Coolant, and new engine mounts where worn
Timing belt kit on used engines of unknown history

How long it takes

2–5 days

The fitting itself usually takes 1–3 working days depending on the car. Sourcing the right engine can add time, so we give you a realistic date when we quote.

What’s included

Diagnosis to confirm engine failure
Engine sourced by matching engine code
All gaskets, seals and fluids
Transfer of ancillaries and oil system priming
Fault code check, road test and running-in advice
3-month workmanship warranty on our labour

Worth knowing

What people get wrong about engine replacement

Buying the engine before the diagnosis

Owners regularly arrive with a bargain engine already in the boot, bought on the model name rather than the engine code. If it does not match the car, or the supplier's warranty lapses the moment it is fitted by someone else, the saving disappears.

Fitting a new engine without fixing the cause

A blocked oil pickup, a collapsed strainer, a seized thermostat or a tired radiator fan will kill the replacement in the same way it killed the original. The cause is part of the job, not an optional extra.

Judging an engine on mileage alone

A unit with 120,000 miles from a car with a stamped service history is often a better bet than one with 60,000 from a car nobody bothered servicing. Where the engine came from tells you more than the number.

Carrying on to get it home

A deep knock or an overheating gauge that is ignored for another ten miles can turn a repairable engine into a seized one, and can take the turbo and catalyst with it. Stopping and calling for recovery keeps the cheaper options open.

Instant quote

Price your engine replacement now

Enter your reg and we’ll look up your car, then price the job from our own labour rates and the book time for your model. Nothing is booked until you say so, and the written quote comes before any work.

Free, about 30 seconds, no sign-up
Parts, labour and VAT included
3-month workmanship warranty
Collection and delivery across South London

“It’s rare to find a garage you can truly trust. Fair price, brilliant customer service.”Thinushan K. · ★★★★★ Google

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Questions

Engine Replacement: your questions answered

Can I supply my own engine and just pay you to fit it?

Sometimes, and we will be straight with you about what changes. We can only warrant our own labour, so if the engine you supply turns out to be faulty you pay the fitting cost a second time and the arguing with the seller is yours. Where we source the unit, both the engine warranty and our workmanship warranty sit with us.

What exactly does the written quote cover?

The engine and its warranty terms, the labour to remove and fit, all the fluids and gaskets, and any optional items listed separately with prices. If something shows up during the strip that we could not have seen, such as a damaged flywheel or a seized subframe bolt, we stop and quote it before going any further.

Will my insurance or used car warranty pay for this?

Ordinary motor insurance does not cover mechanical failure, only damage from an incident. Some used car and extended warranties do cover engine failure, but they almost always need authorising before the engine is stripped, and many exclude a fault caused by missed servicing. Ring your provider first and we will supply the diagnostic report they ask for.

How do I manage without the car for that long?

Say so when you book and we will plan around it. We collect and deliver locally, a courtesy car may or may not be free depending on the week so it pays to ask early, and we can often hold the car until the engine has actually arrived so it is off the road for days rather than weeks.

Reconditioned or used: which is better?

A reconditioned engine has been rebuilt with new wearing parts, so it costs more but starts fresh. A good used engine is cheaper and suits older or lower-value cars. We explain the options and the warranty each supplier offers so you can decide.

What warranty do I get?

Our labour carries our 3-month workmanship warranty. The engine itself is covered by the supplier's warranty, which varies between suppliers and between reconditioned and used units. We tell you exactly what applies before you commit.

Do I need to tell the DVLA?

Your V5C records the engine number, and an engine change is one of the changes you must tell DVLA about, so update it with the new engine number after the work. We give you the details you need.

Is it worth replacing the engine in an older car?

It depends on the car's condition and value, not just its age. A well-kept car with a sound body, gearbox and suspension can be worth it. If the numbers do not add up, we will tell you.

Will I need to run in the new engine?

For a reconditioned engine, yes: gentle driving and varied revs for the first few hundred miles, plus an early oil check. We give you specific advice for your engine at handover.

Engine Replacement near you

We look after engine replacement for drivers right across South London. Pick your area for local prices, directions and collection:

Beddington~6 min away Carshalton~5 min away Cheam~12 min away Coulsdon~17 min away Croydon~15 min away Mitcham~8 min away Morden~12 min away Norbury~18 min away Purley~15 min away Rosehill~9 min away Streatham~20 min away Sutton~10 min away Thornton Heath~15 min away Tooting~18 min away Wallington~6 min away Wimbledon~20 min away Worcester Park~20 min away

Related work we do

Engine DiagnosticsFrom £122 · 1–2 hoursA proper diagnosis of warning lights, running faults and electrical problems, not just a code read.Cambelt ReplacementFrom £475 · 3–6 hoursCambelt (timing belt) replacement with tensioner, idlers and, where belt-driven, the water pump.Timing Chain ReplacementFrom £1025 · 1–3 daysDiagnosis and replacement of worn timing chains, guides, tensioners and sprockets.Vehicle RecoveryFrom £108 · ETA given on the callBreakdown and accident recovery, plus transport for non-runners, from our garage in Hackbridge.Car ServicingFrom £155 · 1–4 hoursInterim, full and major servicing for all makes, carried out to the manufacturer's schedule with the correct specification oil.MOT TestingFrom £50 · 45–60 minutesClass 4 MOT testing for cars and light vans at a flat £50, under the DVSA maximum fee of £54.85, with nothing added for booking or admin.